Process for making shoes



June 21 1927, 1,632,944

C! C. BLAKE PROCESS FOR MAKING SHOES Filed April 28. 1 4 Sheets-Sheet l June 21,1927.

' c. c. BLAKE PROCESS FOR MAKING SHOES 4 Sheets-She t 2 Filed April 28; 1921 0. c. BLAKE June 21, 1927-.

PROCESS FOR MAKING SHOES 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed April 28. 1921 June 21 1927.

v c. c. BLAKE PROCESS FOR MAKING SHOES Filed April 28. 1921 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 ,Zwerr 02:

Patented June 21, 1927.-

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

oHAnLES c. BLAKE, OF BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR To 0. o. BLAKE, IN-

GORPORATED, or BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A oo'nronaTIoN on NEW YORK.

PROCESS FOR MAKING SHOES Application filed April as, 1921. Serial No. 465,131.

The present invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to the manufacture of weltshoes.

In my Patent No. 1,261,741, granted to me April 2,. 1918, I have described a method of making welt shoes which consists in as sembling an upper and insole on a last, stretching the upper into conformity with the contour of the last about the toe of the last. temporarily securing the upper in stretched position by applying a binder tightly around the toe eXteriorly of the periphery of the shoe bottom, securing the upper directly to the insole by securing means extraneous of the binder, and thereafter removing the binder. The binder em ployed is a piece of flexible binding material which bears against the extreme toeend of the shoe and which is secured in position around the toe of the shoe by a pair of clamps arranged to engage the binder at points adjacent theball line of the shoe on opposite sides thereof. I find that this flexible binder tends to bridge across the upper between the extreme toe end of the shoe and the securing clamps thus tending to release the upper slightly so that it does not have continuous contact with the. edge face of the insole around the forepart.

The object of the present invention is to devise a method of making shoes by which the stretched upper may be temporarily secured in its stretched position in continuous and'positive engagement with the edge face of the-insole.

To the acomplishmentof this object, and such others as may hereinafter appear, the various features of theinvention relate to certain methods of making shoes hereinafter described and then set forth broadly and in detail in the appended claims which possess advantages readily apparent to those skilled in this art.

The various features of the present inven tion will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings showing the best method of practising the invention at present known to the inventor. in which,

Figure I is a perspective of the shoe lasted in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a sectional elevation of the shoe shown in Fig. 1

Fig; 3 is an underside plan of the lasted shoe;

7 flange of a leader;

Fig. 4 is aplan of the formed binder; Flg. 5 1s a plan ofthe formed binder in posltion on the outside face of the guiding Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the lasted shoe after the binder has been removed mounted on a jack attached to the leader;

Fig. 7 is a rear sectional elevation of the parts shown'in Fig. 6; Y

Fig. 8 is a rear sectional elevation showing the method of forming the binder on the leader;

Fig. 9 is a plan showing the preliminary step in the formation of'the binder; and

Fig. 10 is a plan of the mechanism shown in Fig. 9 but in a different position in order to show how the binder is wrapped around the forepart-ofthe leader.

Refering now to Figs. 1 to 4 am insole 1 and an upper 2 are first assembled on a last 3. The upper is then stretched to conform it with the contour of the last about the toe thereof. After the upper is stretched or updrawn a formed binder i is snapped into place to bind the stretched upper against the edge face 5 of the insole from a point adjacent the juncture of the ball and shank on one side of the shoe around the toe to a point adjacent the juncture of theballv and shank on the other side of the shoe. Thebinder 4 is held in place to prevent accidental displacement by a wire 6 passing across the shoe through holes formed in the upstand ing skirt of the upper and secured to the offset ends 7 of the binder.

The binder 4;, previously to its application to the stretched upper, has been shaped or formed, as will presently appear, to aceu rately fit about the forepart of the insole and hold the updrawn upper positively in contact with every point on theedge face of the insole around the forepart thereof.

After the binder has been applied to the shoe a fillet of cement is applied to the edge face of the insole. as described in my patent hereinbefore referred to, in order to directly secure the upper to the insole by means extraneous of the binder. After the cement is dry the binder 4 is removed and the last ed shoe is then ready for the welting operation.

In order to prepare the lasted shoe for the welting operation it-is mounted on a jack 8- of the saddle and spindle type secured to a leader 9. This'leader is provided with a the leader where there is a slight variation to allow for the toe box. If the toe box is considered; for purposes of illustration, as a part of the insole then the projections of the edge face of theinsole coincide with the inside face of the guiding flange 10 entirely around the leader. The leader carrying the jacked shoe is inserted into an automatic machine in which the leader is actuated to transfer the point of operation of the welting tools around the shoe.

It will be thus apparent to those skilled in the art that the inside face of the guiding flange 1.0 bears a definite relation to the edge face of the insole'and I propose to take advantage of this relation in the formation of the binder 4.

To this end I mount the leader 9 upside down on a slide 11 (Figs. 9 andlO). In this position the beveled edge of the leader flange 10 faces the slide. The leader is clamped to the slide so that it is spaced somewhat above the surface thereof (Fig. 8). This is done so that where the binder is wrapped around the outside face and under the 'bevel of the guiding flange its inner surface will be spaced from the inside face of the guiding flange a distance equal to the thickness of the upper 2 (Fig. 2). It will be understood that the angle of the bevel, diameter of the binder and spacing of the leader from the slide, are all so chosen as to gain the result just described. 40

The slide 11 is mounted to slide on Ways 12 on the table 13 andis actuated along the ways bya handle 14 pivoted on the table 13 andconnected to a block 15 on the slide through a link 16 pivoted tothe block and toe portion of the leader. One end of the wire is laid in a slot 17 formed near the end of an arm 18 pivoted on a bar 19 secured to V the table 13. The other end of the wire is Fig. 9 to that of Fig. 10 the pins 25 slide along the sloping sides 24. to allow the arms 18 and 21 to gradually approach and thus wrap the hot wire around the forepart of the leader.

In order to position the ends of the hot, wire against the leader at the reverse curves lVhen the slide 11 is moved into the posi- 2 tion of Fig. 10 a pawl 29 is engaged with teeth 30 formed on the bar 26, the pawl being held in position by a spring 31 carried by the arm 18. then moved towards one another to position the binder along the reverse curvesat the juncture of the shank and ball through continued manipulation of a handle 32which is pivoted on the slide 11 and which engages the side .of the bar 21. V

In order to form the lateral extensions 7 (Figs. 3 and 4) on the Wire the slots 17 and 20 on the arms 18 and 21 are formed to properly receive the wire in theposition ofFig. 9 and bend the wire in the final position of Fig. 10. i

In making shoes by my improved method the binder is formed on the leader and then the leader, or one identical with it, is mounted on a jack carryinga last and an untrimmed insole. The leader and jack. are then placed in an automatic rounding ma-. chine in which the insole is trimmed to such size that the projections of points on the edge face of the insole uponlthe plane of the leader coincide with the inside face of the guiding flange on the leader, except at the;

toe of the insole where there'is a slight variation. to allow for the application of the toe box. The last with the trimmed insole is then removed from the leader and an up per containingthe toe box is assembled on the last and updrawn to stretch it in conformity with the upper shaping surface'of the last. The formed binder is then snapped into place to bind the stretched upper to the edge face of the insole. i 7 After the binder is secured in place fillet of cement is inserted between the upper and the edge faceof the insole to secure the upper thereto The binder is then removed the lasted shoe is again jacked upon the leader and the leader and ack are then placed in an automatic machine which secures the welt, upper and insole together either by thread or metallic fastenings. Upon its removal the welted 'shoe'is finished in the usual manner. 7 iVhat is claimed as new is:

1. That improvement in theart of making shoes which consists in forming a leader,

The arms 18 and 21 are trimming an insole to an outline determined ,a last, stretching the upper into conformity with the contour of the last about the toe of the last, temporarily securing said upper in stretched position by applying the formed binder, securing the upper directly to the insole by securing means extraneous of the binder, and removing the binder.

2. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in producing a formed binder to bear a definite relation'to the edge face of an insole, assembling an upper and the insole on a last, stretching the upper into conformity with the contour of the last about the toe of the last, temporarily securingsaid upper in stretched position to the edge face of the insole by applying the formed binder, securing the upper directly to the edge face of the insole by securing means extraneous of the binder, and removing the binder.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in forming a leader having a guiding flange, trimming an insole to cause its edge to bear a definite relation to the guiding flange, producing a formed binderto bear a definite relation to the guiding flange, assembling an upper and the insole on a last, stretching the upper into conformity with the contour of the last about the toe of the last, temporarily securing said upper in stretched position by applying the formed binder, securing the upper directly to the insole by securing means extraneous of the binder, and removing the binder. i

a. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in forming a leader having a guiding flange, trimming an insole to bear a definite relation to the inside face of the guiding flange, forming a binder on the outside face of the guiding flange as a templet, assembling an upper and the insole on a last, stretching the upper into conformity with the contour of the last about the toe of the last, temporarily securing said upper in stretched position by applying the formed binder, securing the upper directly to the insole by securing means extraneous of the binder, and removing the binder.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

CHARLES C. BLAKE. 

